The grand city of
Amalfi was our next stop and here we parked with thousands of other bikes
along the beach just outside the main city gate. We walked through the
city gates onto a picturesque street bordered by sidewalk cafes, art
galleries, and gift shops. Our main interest was the striking Moorish
Cathedral of Amalfi, currently being restored. It contains treasures and
sacred relics, paintings and sculptures dating back to the twelfth
century. After a cappuccino, serenaded by a cute little mutt who stared at
us from between the rungs of a balcony, we bid arrivederci and
hopped back on our preferred mode of transportation. We continued toward
what would be our final destination, the exquisite town of Ravello.
Ravello might be only five kilometers from
Amalfi, but those kilometers are straight up! Never have we experienced
such a switchback-filled road. How could anyone have lived here before
motor vehicles were invented?
Here I must pause
as I savor the memories of this precious jewel of a place. Ravello was a
walk through an Italian version of a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale.
Ancient buildings, cobblestone streets, charming stone walls, yes these
are everywhere in Italy, but even more beautifully packaged and adorned in
Ravello. The main square overlooked the Mediterranean Sea, a backdrop to
the lovely town. Indeed as we wandered through the gardens of Villa Rufolo,
we noticed the construction of platform built to jut out over the ocean,
several thousand feet below. One of the workers explained that every year
in July, a Wagner Festival was held in these gardens and an orchestra full
of musicians perched themselves on this specially constructed stage with
the Mediterranean a dizzying drop below their feet. As a musician, this
awed me. I sat there and just imagined it all taking place that very
moment. I could indeed hear the Flight of the Valkyrie sweeping out over
Ravello and beyond.
Music is the
heart and soul of Ravello. Chamber music concerts perform year round.
Indeed that very day, one of the gardens was being set up as an informal
theatre for a string quartet performance to take place that evening. We
seriously contemplated staying overnight so we could enjoy the concert but
decided to head back. It was starting to cloud over. We had to catch an
early train to Florence. As we rode back down from the charming Ravello, I
looked back. I would return.
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