I strolled down near Santa Croce, searching for the famous Vivoli gelateria (via Isole delle Stinche, 7r) that I’d read about and heard so much about.  Apparently, so had the rest of the world, because when I stepped into the shop, though it too was tucked away on a narrow side street, Americans, Italians and Germans were all furiously and excitedly exclaiming over the gelato flavors.  What threw them off was the common procedure in gelaterias to pay first at the register for your gelato and then go present your receipt to the server for your gelato.  As I listened to some boisterous Americans struggle over the pronunciation of the name of their gelato choice, I noticed that Vivoli’s had several mousse flavors (a very creamy gelato) that intrigued me. The "mousse di amaretto" and "mousse di ribes (black current)" were delicious.  As I scanned the presentation of flavors I understood why gelato is renowned as an "edible art form" – it emanates a certain delicate beauty and its soft texture makes it a joy to eat.  A little Italian boy, very excited to have his gelato cone, beamed up at me with chocolate dripping off his chin, and pure joy was in his smile.  As it was so crowded with tourists, I continued on my journey.

     I found my way back towards the Duomo and came to another popular venue, right on Via dei Tavolini, called Perche No? (Why Not?).  This shop looked more like an ice cream parlor than the other had, with large holding freezers to show off the gelato, stools and counters.  This is unusual, because generally gelaterias do not have seating for customers, as American ice cream parlors do.  I perused the flavors here, and was startled with how many creamy flavors were on display – "panna", which is like a whipped cream, "fiordilatte", which is like a milk cream, "dulce de leche", also defined as a sweet cream.  Every gelateria strives to have something different from the others, and that makes for some very interesting and sometimes unusual concoctions.  I came across a "miele e sesamo" flavor, meaning honey and sesame.      

     I could not resist when I spotted the round purple grapes arranged delicately over the "Malaga" gelato, and had to see for myself what grape gelato is like.  First, though, I had to go through the process of all those decisions--price, cone or cup, wafer or no, one or several flavors.  I settled for a small cone of Malaga and asked the server in my not-so-perfect Italian to recommend a complimentary flavor.  "Meringa (merange)", she suggested and then suddenly, there I had it, my very own gelato cone, already dripping from the softness and the heat.  If only my dad had been there, he’d have been the first to caution me about the "drips", and lick them off before I had chance to.  I handed over my 3,000 lire, smiled grazie and was on my way.  I noticed those hundreds of people around me eating gelato also, some using the little spoon to get taste after taste off their cone, some plunging right in, with trails of gelato falling from their faces.

     I decided to check out one more place, Baby Yogurt, a very popular and busy place on via Calzaiuoli.  This is a new phenomenon in Europe – a shop completely dedicated to yogurt.  Usually, a gelateria will have one or two kinds of yogurt available, but not in any dominating or excessive fashion.  This tiny shop sold only frozen yogurt, and only of one flavor.  The catch was what you put on top of your yogurt.  There were interesting combinations – "yogurt con muesly" (with museli), "yogurt con Macedonia di frutti fresca" (with a variety of fruit) or even "yogurt de la tua fantasia" (yogurt of your fantasy).  Clearly this is the healthy alternative to gelato and I was pleasantly surprised at all of the unusual toppings for your yogurt.

     It was getting late and I didn’t think I could handle another bite of gelato, so I headed back to the steps of the Duomo where I was to meet my parents.  There is just something different about gelato; it is in a class of its own.  The fresh, vibrant flavors set your taste buds afire and make for a delicious snack on an evening stroll through beautiful Italy.  It is a business taken seriously, as is seen with the artistic and careful presentation of the gelato.  Gelato is truly a key component to Italy, which everyone can enjoy, and it weaves perhaps the only common link through the wide variety of people that travel to Italy.  



     As I arrived at the Duomo, the sun was setting and casting brilliant shadows among the statues and painting that peered off of the façade of the great church.  The many colors of the church, like the rainbow of colors of gelato, provide such a breath-taking sight, that one could stand for an hour, transfixed, admiring its beauty.  I found my parents on the steps, looking tired and exhausted from shopping and walking.  I smiled, knowing just the solution. "How about some gelato?" I offered.

Gira! offers a large selection of apartments and villas in and around Florence.  For more information, please contact us at info@italyrentals.com.   

< previous

Copyright 2001, Gira!, Inc.  All rights reserved.